Really? Is it what the name elicits. Upon perusing the menu online beforehand, interesting items caught my eye in a I’m not so sure sort of way. Undoubtedly the inclusion of trotters, ears, faggots (not in the crude sense) are not as tempting or drool inducing as other normal menu items, but as the premise of this restaurant suggests, they use all parts from beard to tail so who am I to question.
Located down the road from Callooh Callay, inside there is extensive use of wall to wall light brown wood panelling with wooden fold out chairs reminiscent of Riding House Café but significantly more friendlier to your derrierre.
We are met with a homey friendly mother like waiter similar to those you would see on Route 99 at a Diner, Drive-in or Drives (shows I watch a lot of Food tv eh)
Onto the food, we selected 3 starters to share and 1 main each.
Baked Bone Marrow with herbs and flat bread – We’re met with two pale white pillars of bone filled with what looked like a miniscule amount of marrow but upon lifting up the base alas revealed an enslave of marrow. Taste wise it was quite moorish, garlic-y and accompanied well by 3 triangles of toasted flat bread (which would have been better with 3 more pieces)
Copperhead Ale mussels and smoked bacon – After sampling mussels in Belgium, size wise – these did not inspire or ooze out the wow factor, however they were delicate little morsels with an abundance of flavour.
Beard to Tail Kentucky rye steak steak tartare – Tartare is not normally my 1st choice however based on the spoonful that I did try, it was a premium grade of beef enhanced by a touch of acidity from the gherkins offset by the quails egg.
Full rack bourbon BBQ ribs with grilled corn on the cob – I had high hopes, I still had high hopes with it appeared in front of me smothered in sauce revealing a deep brown shiny glazing however when I cut into it I knew it wouldn’t be the meaty fall off the bone ribs that I had at Pitt Cue Co, albeit twice the length, there was probably more rib than meat, slightly crispy – lingering on burnt towards the ends and a touch of dryness. It was good but not amazing.
Braised pork cheeks, ginger, dill pickles – Compared to the ribs, these lacked flavour and also that fall apart consistency I always expected when the B word precedes a meat item.
Sweet Potato wedges – When they appeared on the table, they were big and oh did they provide me with the wow factor, however as I placed my fork into the wedge I knew it was lacking that crispy crunchy exterior and inside remained quite raw and crunchy.